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The bioler is Worcester 28CDI combi Fanned Flue RSF. The seals broke due to the 3bar pressure and was repaired by plumber. He said to bleed radiator to reduce pressure if it happens again, but this is a continual fault now.
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Posted in Discussion
The pressure can only go up if there is something to pressurise it. There should be a coupling or flexihose between the cold water feed and your system, this should be physically dis-connected and you should not rely on the service valves as they can leak.
Check when it is off that the pressure returns to normal. If it goes below this then you have a valve that requires replacing. This happened to me.
Any Boiler, and I don’t know what a Combi boiler is- but any boiler should have a Pressure Relief Valve- and yours is not working- make the idiot Plumber come back and replace it. The Radiators should have there own Pressure Relief valves, and work on there own also. But do as he says until you get the Boiler working right- Relieve that pressure,
The other day we had a man killed by a Steam pipe- explosion-
The CDI range have a white filling key fitted to the bottom of the boiler, shut off both valves at each side of it and remove the key. This should stop the system pressurising. If the pressure continues to rise there will be a pinhole leak inside the water to water heat exchanger passing from the mains into the heating circuit. This part is pretty easily replaced.
I’m sorry to say this but I wish people like Bill would shut up as they haven’t a clue what they are talking about. There never has been a pressure release valve fitted to a radiator and the only boilers that have them fitted are combination boilers, (for Bill’s sake, a boiler that heats the hot water on demand and not heat a hot water storage cylinder), or boilers fitted to a pressurised system. You have been given the answer, disconnect the loop that is installed to fill the system. It shouldn’t be permanently connected.