I have a gas central heating system. Next week I am having a plasterer to skim my walls (house around 125 yrs old) in my lounge. I will require to instruct a plumber to remove a radiator to plaster the wall behind and then connect again on completion. Can anyone tell me if this is a big job and does the Central Heating systme require to be drained? I live in Scotland, can you please tell me the average cost of doing this. With thanks.
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as long as the radiator valves are shut down properly(turned to off) only the radiator needs to be drained.
1. turn valves to off position
2. open bleed valve on top of radiator
3. slacken the nut connecting the valve to the radiator, this will allow the water to drain(idealy cat litter trays are perfect to catch the water due to shallow design
4. after draining all water from the radiator, completly undo the slackened nut and repeat process on other side.
5. now lift radiator from mountings raise one end slightly more than the other thus draining black sedament into water tray( this black sludge will stain carpet, upholstery so great care to be taken)
possibly wrap a lage towel around each pipe to catch any drips
good luck sounds difficult but isn’t
Any good heating engineer ( not a plumber) will only need to drain down the one radiator and not the whole system.
ps,you could even ask the builder who is doing the plastering if he could do it without the added expense and anyone in the building trade should know how to do this very simple job.
This is a simple job for a plumber all he has to do is 1) Turn of both valves at each end of the radiator. 2) Drain the water out of the radiator. then remove the radiator brackets ( keep these as they will have to be put back after the plaster as done his skimming of your wall) try to take a picture of the brackets before you remove them and wright the exact measurements on the back of the picture so that the bracket get put back in the right place. 3) When the plaster has dried out thoroughly and you have redecorated the wall call in the plumber to re-fix brackets and radiator then you only need to bleed the one radiator. This is of great value because you can have the heating on in the rest of the house while the plasterer does his work. There seems to be better experts that me answering this question for you. And most plumber know about central heating these days. but what do I know I’ve only worked in the building trade for 30 years, learning in that time to do plumbing and electrics most other jobs to do with maintenance. As to cost I don’t know as I work direct for my company.
You should be able to close the (2) valves completely either end of your radiator, (1 may have a cap over it which will simply revolve). If so, pull the cap off to reveal a flat spindle.
You use the control knob you’ve taken off the other end to close both valves clockwise. You would then have to patiently drain ONLY that radiator, by slightly undoing 1 connection (Valve to radiator), and placing a bowl underneath to catch water. You would need to ensure both valves were FULLY closed by using a good pair of pliers or preferably an adjustable spanner. To enable the water to escape faster, you would slacken the bleed screw at top of radiator.
I hope that is of some use to you. If not, a local plumber should remove it, & replace it when your work is done, for £50 or less as it really is a simple & quick job.
I am assuming it’s a modern radiator. Your plasterer may even know a decent plumber, ASK !!!
If I was close to you, I’d do it for a brew & a bacon butty.
PS,,, If it’s only being ’skimmed’ (top coat only), the brackets don’t need to be removed from the wall.
The plumber might,
(a) part drain the system
(b) or just close of the valves on each side of the rad and drain the rad to be removed.
(c) Or loosen the valves and unhook the ran and lay it flat on some boxes on the floor, so not needing to drain any water out.
Depends on the plasters needs.
I would go for option B, unless the control heating water needs changing.
(plumber).
Some not-bad answers, however one mentioned black sludge, There should NEVER be black sludge in any radiator, the original installer did’nt put inhibiting fluid in the system.
SCIENCE
When a boiler and radiators are bought, there is no sludge in the system, Where does it come from?
Answer It is black rust ( magnetite) caused by the water being slightly acidic instead of being neutral or slightly alkaline.
A scientific figure of pH 7 is NEUTRAL Above 7 is alkaline, and below 7 is acid
When a heating system is being installed, the installer usually uses a lot of soldered joints, and in so doing uses acid flux, as it is the best for soldering with.
Inevitably this acid gets into the original water, making it very slightly acidic.
Inside a radiator the surfaces are bare steel, and the valves are brass, the pipes can be copper, An EMF (voltage ) is created because of the dissimilar metals, and the anode gets eaten-away ( the radiators),
The bye-product of this chemical attack is ………..YOU GUESSED IT black paste (magnetite ) Your good money down the drain !!!!!
So the answer is to have the system flushed out at first fire-up, drained and refilled with water which has had inhibiting fluid added to bring the pH above 7 When this scenario is in place, a “cell” cannot occur, so no rust, and the same water remains in the system for evermore, all the oxygen having been driven out years ago
I will not ramble on any more. but I thought you should know
the facts. When I get started I don’t know when to stop.
It is worth noting that some radiator thermostatic valves do not have an ‘off’ position, and only go down as low as frost protection, if this is the case, the valve may open during the night if frost occurs, especially when no heat is on, this will cause a flood, so be sure it has an off position, and that it is turned off properly.